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Female Dress Standards
This document is not intended to be a stick which to beat members into conforming, but is offered in answer to the problem that many female members have never been given the right information or been told what is right or wrong about what they wear.
STANDARD REQUIREMENTS
These are the garments which every participating female member of the regiment should be wearing within two years of joining or of receipt of this document. Help can be given by the regiment in supplying patterns, advice and materials if required. Shift --- Linen 2 Skirts --- Wool and or Linen Corset/bodice --- Linen/wool Coif --- Linen Neckerchief --- Linen Apron --- Wool or Linen Shoes --- Leather–Authentic pattern Each of these garments will be described as to the acceptable styles and forms in which they can be worn. Other articles of Clothing can be and should be worn where appropriate to the character which is being portrayed - usually a camp follower or townswomen. Shift Unbleached Linen Side gussets Not drawstring or yoked neckline – either gathered onto a band ( to fit neck or line of bodice) or scooped plain ¾ length sleeves – not too full or full length if worn under long sleeved bodice pattern available below knee length Skirt/Petticoat (These terms both mean the same thing – a petticoat was just any underskirt worn under a top skirt!) Minimum of two –preferably three, four or five Wool or Linen Minimum of three times hip measurement( about 3 yards) around hem. They are quite simply a rectangle of cloth sewn into a waistband. They do not have a train or are cut in a complicated shaped pattern pieces. Calf length if you are working and you have good quality shoes otherwise floor length not not dragging in the mud.! Cartridge pleated- NOT flat or box pleated. The pleats should be” padded” with an extra layer or two of wool – this makes construction easier and quicker. The regiment has samples of cartridge pleating to show you how it should be done. A skirt should be gathered onto a drawstring for ease of construction – this still gives the necessary shape at the waist where the cartridge pleats would sit and may be the easiest option for a first timer. Plain & subdued colours with simple bands of decoration at hem if appropriate. All wool was dyed with natural dyes so if it blends well with the natural colours of the landscape it will be OK – exceptions to this were scarlet – which was thought to be a warm colour and used as under petticoats – and oranges/gold’s which were actually easy to dye. The cheapest dyes were blue. If wearing linen it should be a strong colour so that it doesn’t look like your shift. When wearing two or more skirts, the top can either be split to show an under skirt or hitched up at the front and or sides. Bum Rolls If you do not wish to wear three skirts you can get away with it as long as you wear a “bum rooll” which will simulate the bulk of the cartridge pleated skirts at the waist without having to carry the extra weight – very useful in hot weather – they should be packed with something light and easy to wash as polyester wadding or kapok – aim for something which is not flammable through if you are going to be working on an open fire – don’t use old tights or cut up bits of wool as they get lumpy and uncomfortable to wear. Remember the aim is to create a fullness round the hips – not a shelf! Bodice A Wool or Linen bodice should be worn over a correct pattern corset. If you do not want to wear a corset your bodice must be boned fully to give the correct shape. Only light boning is required in the bodice if the corset is properly constructed. If your corset is loose, unboned and fits anyone else, it is probably not right! Patterns for bodices can be obtained from the regiment along with instructions for making them. If you have any sewing skills we recommend having a go. Early 17th century bodice patterns should have straight seems – the idea was to make your body into a truncated cone shape – no bustline should be visible and there should be smooth lines all round the body. Bodices should be lined in linen with ¾ length sleeves ( Halfway between wrist and elbow) if full or full length if narrow – what ever length is chosen, the shift should not be visible at the wrists ( unless a cuff or a ruffle is worn – unlikely for lower classes) Bodices usually have tabs – various numbers are acceptable but remember the larger and deeper they are – the fewer there are. Un- tabbed bodices should be laced to the skirt not sewn in. Bodices can be fasten either at the front or back. if front fastening - a stomacher was usually worn – this was a very stiff fronts piece made from card or buckram which helped give the right shape. This can be attached to the bodice to stop it slipping – but it shouldn’t if the bodice is tight enough. Fastenings can either be lacing holes ( not ribbon loops or metal hoops) – buttons or hooks and eyes. Don’t use modern synthetic ribbons for lacing – a lucet cord, linen tape or even a length of string looks better. Simple decoration is acceptable – but try to avoid the “ Russia braid round every pattern piece and edge” look - - it smacks of mass production when all the traders are using it – look for some way of your own to make your bodice unique to yourself – ask others who you think look well-dressed for their advice. Corsets Corsets must not be worn without a shift underneath and a bodice on top – imagine it is the 17th century equivalent of a bra and then decide where it would be acceptable for you to be seen in it ( even whores didn’t go out half dressed much as popular myth would have us believe!) Corsets should be back fastening but if you have no one available or willing to lace you in then a front fastening one is more acceptable than none at all. Corsets should be plain and made of linen or canvas to give you support – but not leather. The leather corsets which are available from traders are not correct and should not be worn – even the cut is wrong and gives the wrong shape for this period. If you have alredy invested in one and wish to wear it in the beer tent then no-one will stop you. Coif Linen unbleached Correct pattern – available from the regiment. Have a look at period paintings to see the wide variety in styles then have a go at copying them NO lace NO embroidery - a fully embroidered coif of the correct pattern is acceptable if your character is of a high enough class ( i.e well off) Hand stitched – it only takes about an hour to hand sew a coif even if you have never done it before – try it. NB If you have a look at paintings and woodcuts etc, you will find that, almost without exception, when a coif is worn there should be NO hair showing. This is especially important for those who have short modern hairstyles and fringes. If your hair shows in the coif which you now wear – make yourself a bigger one or chose a different style. This will make all the difference from being a 21st century women dressed in costume to being a 17th century character. Collar/Neckerchief Linen Unbleached NO embroidery or lace Hand stitched – come on you have done the coif – now this should be a doddle! 36” ( 96cm) square turned under the along the edges and folded in half diagonally – to save a bit of money you could share with a friend and cut it in half and have just a triangle each. Apron Unbleached linen or coloured linen or wool. Any colour – white was common for respectable ladies of the town when out shopping, but around the house or for working women and camp followers, coloured cloth was more usual. An apron ( or a Napron as it should be more correctly called ) was used for all sorts of work – drying hands and dishes, carrying hot or dirty pans, wiping surfaces and utensils and cleaning out little boys ears! Usually below knee length they are a square or rectangle, gathered on to a narrow band or cord and tied around the waist – they look long and thin, being gathered into about 12 inches (30cm) Shoes Women are luckier than men in that very often their skirts cover their shoes and the worst problems can be hidden. If you are a new members and cannot afford authentic shoes yet try to remember the following. dark and not coloured or light flat or very low heel lace up rather than plain or buckled If you have invested in a pair of desert boots, you should be aware that there is too much about them which is wrong to wear them as authentic shoes. Winchesters in its aim for 100% authentic footwear, is now operating a subsidy system which will help members to buy authentic shoes at reduced prices. Please see an officer for details. On suitable sites it will be best if you can go barefoot ( and this is the only time you Shouldn’t wear stockings) If you do this – remember that bobbling across slightly uncomfortable ground makes it obvious you’re not used to it – tough it out!! Hats 17th century women usually wore hats out of doors – ore likely the more respectable they were. Servants and lower classes still only wear a coif. If wearing a hat make sure of several things. It does not look too military – no regimental favours or coloured ribbons There are no feathers, especially ostrich – they were so expensive in the 17th century that only gentry would wear them ( one feather cost the same as a musket) They must wear a coif underneath and not have long flowing hair coming out of the back – this is only acceptable for men. Cloaks/Coats There are few pictures showing women out of doors wearing anything but bodices – they may have worn several to keep out the worst of the cold or even fur lined ones in bad winters. Overcoats were similar to a cassock but without the side fastening and were knee length. They had large sleeves and buttoned down the front.(probably similar to a mans riding coat ) Cloaks were made of two pieces and cut from and arc of a circle - you should be able to open it out and lay it flat on the floor. If it has curved seams to fit the shoulders, you need to think about recutting it. Bags women did not carry shoulder bags or snapsacks. If they were out of the house they would usually a basket ( of willow or hazel) If you don’t have a suitable one , a “bundle” can be made from a piece of cloth which you can then tie and carry over your arm. A large “bundle” can be slung across the back. A drawstring purse or small bag of cloth or leather can be carried hung from a belt round the waist, it should hang from a length of cord, string or thong. Please, please, please avoid the leather “cartridge box” type bags which sit on the waist. Jewellery You may wear a simple wedding band and if you have an engagement ring which you do not wish to or cannot remove, it is best to turn in side your finger. If you are working at a living history it may be best to further protect this by a small piece of sticky tape ( on the inside!) to cover it & hold it in place. Plain gold studs or small hoop earrings may be worn ( but you shouldn’t be able to see them anyway if your coif is the correct size and pattern !) Simple wooden beads or semiprecious beads may be worn around the neck, but unless you are portraying higher classes avoid any necklaces or fancy earrings. All other jewellery must be removed – especially facial piercings!! Children A highly desirable accessory – they were very common in the 17th century and very few women would have been without one. they come in all shapes and sizes, none of which are inauthentic. If you haven’t got any – why not borrow some for the weekend. Seriously though – children’s clothing is another issue – which will hopefully be covered in another leaflet. Little things make a big difference
If your outfit is not up to the required levels, cover up with a large collar and apron – a lot cheaper than the complete change of clothing which may take a few years to achieve – the desirable shape for a 17th century woman was larger than the late 21sth century ideal – silhouette counts for so much. Don’t worry about what you think you look like – to the public you’ll look great Women of means and class rarely followed an army – aim to be a campfollower or aspire to be a townswoman and avoid the extra expense of satins and velvets. Concentrate on getting the most out of the outfits you will be wearing the most before getting to the expense of special banqueting cloths. Spend your time and money getting things right and don’t rush into purchasing things without discussing it with a friend or more experienced member. Many of us are so proud of our outfits that we want to keep them as good and clean as the day they were made. Imagine you are on campaign with your soldier husband – when did you last wash? How do you get your cloths cleaned? Have you got more than one change of cloths? Where do you buy pins, needles and thread from? Do you know where your next meal is coming from? I’m not suggesting we all go round in 17th century grunge – but try not to wash your cloths every time you wear them – just brush off the excess mud and get tem dry cleaned only when you have to ( this does not go for the linen underwear!!) If you rip something -, make an obvious repair ( not a different coloured patch sewn on with blanket stitch – too pantomime). Rub the elbows, shoulders and othe wear pints with sandpaper to make it look older and more worn – don’t worry that this will reduce the lifespan of your kit – just think about how many times you wear it. Anyway if it wears out after five years that’s a good excuse to go shopping!! Don’t iron fresh creases into clothing – you may have been “sleeping” in it the night before. Use old faded material to make your outfits. Add paint and bleach to create permanent effects so that it looks older and dirtier than it is – you can then wash this and know that you’re clean on the inside!! Really bad mistakes!!
I know you don’t really need telling about these, buts if it’s not put in the regulations then a new recruit may come along and say that nobody said they couldn’t actually do it. Make Up A definite NO NO - don’t even bother bringing your make up bag with you!! Make up was not worn by respectable women. If you wear any on a Winchesters living history site you will be asked to remove it – that goes to the men too! Glasses These are more difficult and alternatives can be very expensive If you can manage at all please go without – it doesn’t matter if you can’t read or recognise someone’s face. Try to get contact lenses – they’re getting cheaper & more accessible all the time. If you Have to wear glasses make them either rimless, or with very unobstructive wire frames. You can get reproduction period glasses which you can have your own lenses put into. Sunglasses NO NO NO NO NO NO ! Pushchairs If your child is normally in a pushchair and you cannot carry them or they will not walk, then you should stay in 21st Century clothing. Some sponsors now have this as a regulation on their sites so it will be easier if we are used to it. Cigarettes You don’t really need telling that Sir Walter Raleigh was mad!! Find somewhere completely away from the public or get a clay pipe!! SUMMARY
c – compulsory –must achieve
d – desirable – should achieve w – would like to achieve x- definitely NOT acceptable COIF linen --- c Correct pattern --- c Unbleached --- d Hand stitched --- w Lace / embroidery --- x SHIFT Linen --- c Correct pattern --- c Unbleached --- d Hand stitched --- w Drawstringed --- x PLEASE NOTE – WITH ALL UNBLEACHED CLOTH
YOU WILL NEED TO WASH IN “COLOUR” TYPE WASHING POWDER OR IT WILL EVENTUALLY GO WHITE!! NECKERCHIEF Linen --- c Square or triangle --- c Unbleached --- d Lace / embroidery --- x BODICE Linen / wool --- c boned ( or corset) ---c Correct pattern --- c Simple / plain --- c SKIRTS Wool or linen --- c Minimum 3 yards --- c Drawstringed or cartridge pleated --- c 2 to be worn --- c 3 or more --- d bum rolls --- d COPYRIGHT JILL KNIGHT 2000
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